Location: 6 miles SE of Carson Pass

Drive: Take Highway 88 to Blue Lakes Road, which is 2.5 miles west from Picketts Junction (west junction of Highway 88 and Highway 89) or 6.3 miles east from Carson Pass. Drive about 9 miles south to a wide shoulder just north of the road's local summit, and park.
Climb: Shortly on the left (east) side of the road's local summit is a blocked-off dirt track with large boulders and posted "No Motor Vehicles." Follow this road past a sign "National Forest Wilderness" in 100 feet. Continue on this track toward the peak, which rises directly ahead. Follow the dirt tracks, then head cross-country to the base of the south side of this large, volcanic mud flow crag. Work up class 2-3 rock, requiring good route-finding, to the sloping scree slopes at the highest attainable point without roped climbing. A class 4 alcove leads almost vertically up knobby agglomerate into a crack/gully. A fixed ring piton may be found in a deep crack about 15 feet up. About 40 feet up, a small cave is found. About 10-15 feet above this, slightly to the left, is a larger cave. A solid belay position is situated here behind an outcrop. Go through this larger cave (watch your head) to a large, open ledge, which can also be used as a belay point, although communication downward is poor here. This leads into a tight, vertical chimney which is climbed up its 20 feet. From the top of the chimney, a class 2 scramble leads to the highpoint. This route is normally downclimbed. For weaker parties, a sling and biner may have to be left for an upper running belay to better protect the last climber.

WINTER SKI ASCENT: A long tour would have to be done from Red Lake (see Markleeville Peak, Winter Ski Ascent). Despite carrying rope and gear, the hazard of wet or icy rock with touring boots detracts from the safety context of this guide.

TRIP STATS: Route A, 760 feet gain, 1.5 miles one way.

Notes: This peak is rarely climbed. Other routes have been done on this mass, but dubious holds on sometimes crumbly rock, with poor opportunities for protection, discourage any other routes. This crag seems to overhang on three sides.

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